Analysing Ancient Nubian Cosmetics and Remedies

Nubia, home to some of Africa's earliest kingdoms, is the focus of an innovative interdisciplinary research project by chemist Fatima Elbashir Siddig, PhD-student of AGYA alumnus Prof. Dr. Abdalla Elbashir. In her project, she seeks to merge her expertise in chemistry with archaeological research to explore ancient Sudanese cosmetics and remedies, primarily focusing on the Kushite Kingdom periods of Napata (750-330 CE) and Meroë (300-350 CE), while comparing these to the earlier New Kingdom (1150-1077 BCE) and Kerma culture (2000-1550 BCE) periods to reveal developing patterns and external influences.

Ancient perfumery and cosmetics practices in Meroë, Kush, Egypt, and even Rome were shaped by extensive ancient trade networks along the Incense Route linking the Mediterranean region with East Africa and India. Cultural exchanges during the Kushite period, and the adoption of Greco-Roman influences in Meroitic art and technology, resulted in a rich tapestry of shared techniques, ingredients, and a cultural significance of aromatic substances across these civilizations.

Fatima conducts a bio-molecular analysis of residues from pots that included traditional eye cosmetics made from ground minerals called kohl and pigments collected from ancient perfume vessels found at Nubian archeological sites in Sudan. The pigments were collected from items reserved at the National Corporation of Antiquities and Museums Sudan (NCAM). Her project aims to uncover the composition, production, and use of Kushite beauty and medicinal products. This research holds the potential to gain valuable insights into Nubian daily life and ancient craftsmanship, while also exploring the spiritual significance attributed to perfumed oils, pigments, and cosmetic materials in Nubian culture. This interdisciplinary approach illuminates cultural continuities and changes in ancient Nubian society, offering a unique perspective on ancient beauty and health practices. Through the AGYA Research Mobility Program, Fatima had the opportunity to conduct research at the Max Planck Institute of Geoanthropology in Jena, Germany.

My research stay has been rich with interdisciplinary encounters. The results of my research offer archeologists and historians valuable insights into ancient Sudanese beauty rituals as well as medicinal practices.

What brought you to Germany in the framework of your AGYA Research Mobility Program project?

Fatima Elbashir Siddig: I chose Germany for its world-class archaeometry facilities and expertise. I needed to analyze archaeological materials through scientific methods used in chemistry. The interdisciplinary field of archaeometry applies physics, chemistry, biology, and materials science to study artifacts in various archaeological sites in Sudan in order to gain deeper insights into ancient cultures and their technologies. The facilities at the Max Planck Institute of Geoanthropology in Jena, Germany were ideally suited for my research project. The laboratory is equipped with cutting-edge facilities for wet chemistry techniques, which enabled me to perform experiments and analyses in liquid solutions with high precision by using chromatographic and spectroscopic techniques at the Biochemistry lab at MPI-GEA.

The project has a particular focus on the content of perfumed Alabaster vessels dated to the Egyptian New Kingdom as well as Meroitic Roman-style glass vessels, merging an advanced scientific analysis with historical contexts, potentially revealing new insights into ancient Nubian society through the study of perfumed oils. The exciting prospect of identifying specific perfume compositions opens avenues for deeper research, requiring extensive data analysis and archaeological contextualization, making the process both intellectually stimulating and rewarding. The interdisciplinary nature of the research, blending archaeology, chemistry, and anthropology, provides a scientific puzzle that requires creative problem-solving skills to connect scientific data with historical understanding. I pretty much enjoy this process!

You are conducting chemical analysis on substances that are of significant age or have been preserved for centuries. What is challenging about your research?

Fatima Elbashir Siddig: My research on ancient cosmetics and remedies presents several challenges, the most significant being the complexity of organic residues found in archaeological contexts. Over time, these materials degrade, making their identification and interpretation particularly challenging. To overcome this, I employ a range of advanced analytical methods, such as spectroscopic techniques to measure and interpret the interaction between light or electromagnetic radiation and matter. These techniques provide valuable information about the composition, structure, and properties of substances and help me to differentiate between intentionally crafted cosmetics and naturally occurring substances.

Did you engage in interdisciplinary encounters during your research stay?

Fatima Elbashir Siddig: My research stay was rich with interdisciplinary encounters. I collaborated with chemists, archaeologists, and material scientists, gaining new perspectives on my research. The specialized training in spectroscopic techniques, data interpretation, and laboratory safety enhanced my skills in handling and analyzing ancient materials tremendously. Additionally, I presented a poster at the 13th International Conference for Meroitic Studies in Münster from September 9 – 13, 2024. The conference offered an excellent platform for interdisciplinary exchange and allowed me to present the findings of my AGYA-supported research to a community of archeologists and historians outside of my own academic comfort zone.

As part of my work analyzing ancient cosmetic residues, I took the opportunity to personally connect with the excavation directors responsible for some of my sample collections from Sadeinga and Sai Island. Sadeinga, located on the west bank of the Nile in northern Sudan, lies about 100 kilometers north of the third cataract. Sai Island, the largest island on the Nile, is situated between the second and third cataracts. These French-led excavations in Sudan, conducted some time ago, welcomed my inquiries, generously providing additional contextual data and valuable information about their archaeological sites.